Karl explained that there are a lot of components to Lightroom. Today we just went over the basics. Lightroom is like a database. It allows you to organize and edit your photos as well as to create slideshows or photo books.
First of all, obtaining Lightroom (LR) can be done through Adobe Creative Cloud at https://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/photography.html Ther.e are different bundles of programs available, but the photography package includes Lightroom CC and Photoshop CC as well as Bridge CC. The cost is $9.99 per month and includes all periodic updates.
One thing to remember is that Lightroom does not move, copy, or change the original photo in any way. It is a nondestructive editing program which allows you to make changes to a preview version so that you can see what the final image will look like after editing. Lightroom then stores a record of all of the changes you have made to a picture in a separate file called the Catalog. Lightroom contains the following modules: Library, Develop, Map, Book, Slideshow, Print, and The Web. The Library and Develop modules are the two core modules that most people will use the most.
The library is there to help you organize and manage your photographs. You will find, import, sort, and organize your photos all through the Library module. The navigation options are located on the left side panel. This panel gives you access to all images in your current Catalog. Your Catalog in Lightroom is all of the pictures that Lightroom has access to. The Lightroom Catalog file contains only information, however. The actual images are NOT being stored in the Lightroom Catalog. Lightroom is just referencing those images at a particular location on your hard drive. Therefore, if you move your photos to a different location on your hard disk, Lightroom will not be able to find them. This is important to know and understand!
First, however, you must import your images into Lightroom. (And by “import” I mean you are importing the location of the images, NOT the actual images themselves.) You can do this by clicking on the Import button on the bottom left of the Library module. This will bring up another window showing the contents of your hard drive which you will see on the left side of the screen. Next, find where the images you want to Import are located and click on the file you want. Those images will then be displayed as thumbnails. You can uncheck any images that you do NOT want to import. Once you have done this just click on Import at the bottom right-hand side of the screen and all of the checked images will then be Imported into your Lightroom catalog.
The central portion of the Library Module is the image display. You can choose to view your pictures in a resizeable grid or one at a time. The right side panel is your metadata tool where you can add keywords and copyright information. Keywords make finding certain images easier, and multiple keywords can be added by separating each word with a comma.
The next module is the Develop module which is where you can edit your images. You can bring up an image you want to work on by locating and clicking on it while in the Library module and then clicking on Develop at the top right side of the screen. At the left side of the Develop window, there are various presets that you can try if you like. Your History panel is also located on the left. On the right side are a series of panels such as Basic, Tone Curve, Tone Splitting, Detail, Lens Corrections, and more where you can make your adjustments to exposure, contrast, highlights and shadows, as well as sharpening, color adjustments and more. Once you are done your basic editing in Lightroom, you can right-click on the photo and choose Edit in Photoshop, Topaz, Nik Software, etc. to continue making other adjustments.
The Map module allows you to geotag, or input the location of where the photograph was taken. The book allows you to make your images into a book that you can have printed or published. Slideshow lets you quickly set up a slideshow of images for your friends, family, or clients to view. With the Print module, you can specify the print size and location on the paper, add watermarks, and apply print sharpening. You can also specify the color profile of your particular printer. And finally, the Web module lets you create an online gallery in various formats. There are several layout styles and presets/templates to choose from and each is customizable.
There are some good sources online if you want to learn more about Lightroom. Here are a few: https://digital-photography-school.com/?s=lightroom http,s://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/tutorials.html,
https://www.lightroomqueen.com/keyboard-shortcuts/lrcc6/ http,s://www.youtube.com/user/AdobeLightroom, and http://www.jkost.com/lightroom.html
The photo assignment for August was “Kids with Props.” The winners for this month are 1st Place - Mike Jones, 2nd Place - Rick MacQuade, 3rd Place - Melissa Chin.
Our featured speaker today was a club member, Karl Barth, who spoke to us on “Understanding Your Camera Settings.” So what’s inside a DSLR Camera? There’s an LCD Display (1), Sensor (2), Memory (3), Battery (4),
Flash (5), Shutter (6), and a lens (7).
There are two types of sensors – Full Frame and Crop. Nikon has two: FX which is a full frame sensor and DX which is a crop sensor. Canon has three: Full frame, and two crop sensors - 1.3x, and 1.6x.
So what are the differences? Well…full frame sensors are bigger and also more expensive but tend to give better quality images in low light situations. They also give photographers more options when it comes to wide-angle images. This is advantageous when shooting architecture and landscapes. Crop sensors also provide excellent image quality but are less expensive. They are ideal for shooting nature, wildlife, and sports because you can take advantage of the crop factor to get maximum detail at long distances.
When purchasing a lens, make sure it is compatible with your camera. A full frame lens may work with a crop sensor camera, but it will work differently. Also, it is important to keep the sensor clean. If changing a lens turn the camera off and hold it downward so that dust and particles to not fall into the camera. Some cameras have built-in sensor cleaners. Check your manual!
Most cameras have various modes that you can shoot in including shutter priority mode, aperture priority mode, program mode, manual mode, and auto mode. Though we may want to start out in auto mode, there are many advantages to stepping out of your comfort zone and trying other modes. While shooting in auto mode may be easier, you may not always get the shot you want. There is limited room for creativity since the camera does all of the work. Don’t be afraid to experiment with other modes including manual mode!
So take control of your camera! Read the manual. Get familiar with the different control buttons. Get out of auto mode and experiment with different settings. Don’t be afraid of taking a bad picture. Go on photo outings with the Photo Club. There are people there of every skill level who will always be glad to help you so don’t be afraid to ask others for advice. Take your camera wherever you go. And practice, practice, practice!
A good reference for understanding your camera settings is: https://digital-photography-school.com/
The winners of the May photo assignment, “Can You See Me?” are 1st place – Rick MacQuade, Beth Phifer, and 3rd place – Courtney Wright.
Sharon’s love of photography started while documenting her family and friends lives. She made the leap to a DSLR shortly after her grandchildren were born when her current equipment couldn’t keep up with their fast movements. The DSLR gave her the ability to capture those candid shots, often in low light, where fast movements and expressions of joy and fun abound. Sharon believes that learning never stops and her work continues to evolve through her commitment to multiple learning outlets.
Sharon says, “A lot of people are afraid of flash…but sometimes, the light is just not there.” It is in those cases that you need a flash. She admits that she is not an expert, but has learned a lot on her own through both books and YouTube videos, as well as from other Photography club members. She plays it safe, using what she has found to work after much experimentation. (She even bought a mannequin head to practice on after her husband got tired of being her subject!) Sharon says you just have to practice!
Sharon advises when out shooting with a flash, especially if shooting a wedding or other special event where you won’t have the chance for a “re-do,” one of the most important things to do is to make sure that you have extra batteries, and that they work! Sharon uses a battery pack. It is also important, especially when shooting events where people are moving around, to have a flash that recycles quickly. For portraits, to get the right lighting you must often have multiple flashes, and that is where off-camera flash comes in. She has several flashes she uses but recommends Yongnuo Speedlite which are good flashes but are a fraction of the cost of either a Nikon or Canon flash. For portraits, she also uses diffuser umbrellas, and a remote control called a Wireless Cactus Flash Trigger.
Sharon shoots her flash images in manual mode because you have more control. When using fill-flash, you can either increase or decrease the flash exposure depending on the available light. She recommends bouncing the flash off of the wall behind or beside you as opposed to the ceiling which tends to give the subject “raccoon eyes.”
Sharon is a Canon user and recommends the book “Speedliters Handbook” by Syl Avena. She says “If I can do it, anybody can do it!” After some practice, it all comes together!
The April photo assignment was “Fairytale Moments”. The winners were: 1st place – Tammi Gorsak, 2nd place – Melissa Chin, 3rd place – Brenda Schillaci. For May the photo assignment is “Can You See Me?” A slide show entitled “April and Shane’s Wedding” was presented by Sharon Shifflett.
Our guest speaker today was Patty Hankins, a fine art floral photographer from Bethesda, Maryland. Patty says, “In 2002, after getting Master’s Degrees in Public Policy and History and working for several years as a grassroots activist, I acquired a new digital camera and rediscovered my love of photography. For me, the flexibility and freedom of digital photography means I can finally create the photographs I’ve always envisioned. I carefully edit and print every photo myself to ensure that each person who collects my art has an original piece that will last a lifetime.” Patty’s presentation today was entitled “Representing a 3D World in a 2D Image.”
Before you take a picture, says Patty, the first thing you want to do is think! What was it about a particular scene that caught your eye? What made you want to stop here? Was it a color? A shape? A line? Move around and explore the scene. Look at it from different angles. Next, you need to visualize the final image. To do this, define the subject and figure out what you want to include or exclude? How can you show the viewers what you were seeing and feeling at that moment? Patty says, “use a viewfinder,” some small frame that you can hold up to help you visualize the subject in 2D. (Patty uses a small frame cut from a piece of mat board but says that you can also just form a frame using your thumbs and forefingers.)
To represent the 3D world in a 2D image, it is necessary to show a sense of depth. While in the field capturing images look for things such as leading lines (rivers, roads, lines of light), converging lines (lines that meet in the distance), overlap (one element in front or back of another), and planes (a distinct foreground, middle ground, and background). Using depth of field can also show depth. With a shallow depth of field, the sharpest elements are the nearest while the out of focus elements are further away. Even with a greater depth of field, the sharper elements are the closest while; the more distance elements appear to fade.
Once you have your image, there are things you can do in post-processing to further add depth. Eliminate any distracting elements (with the clone tool, healing brush, crop tool, etc.) Lighten or brighten the subject or any elements you want to stand out from the background. Lightening an area tends to bring that area forward while darkening an area takes it back into the distance. Selectively sharpen areas that you want the viewer to focus on. Adjust colors. Cooler colors look farther away. Desaturating color also makes it recede into the background. Emphasize lines to separate elements and separate planes. Sometimes converting to black and white can also bring out depth, particularly when there is not a lot of color contrast. The History Brush can be used to add contrast by adding lines of definition and separation between sections of the image.
Patty is available for public speaking engagements as well as workshops and even private instruction. Her work can be found at http://www.beautifulflowerpictures.com Or f.ollow her on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram.
The photo theme for February was “Creative Composition”.
The winners were: 1st place (tie) – Melissa Chin and Jim Rogers, 2nd place – Tammi Gorsak, and
3rd place – Mike Jones.
Congratulations to the winners! Your names have been added to the drawing for the end of the
year prize of a boxed version of ProShow Producer. A $250 value. http://bit.ly/1UivwYo
The 1st Prize Winner will also be this month’s Facebook cover for the month.
The photo assignment for March is “Fairytale Moments.”
The January 2017 meeting of the Calvert Photography Club was called to order on Saturday, January 21st by our Vice President, Anik Sales.
Today’s guest speaker was club member Carl Occhipinti who demonstrated some of the functions of Photoshop’s Camera Raw. Carl advised that Camera Raw has changed dramatically from Photoshop CS6 to Photoshop CC 2017. The 2017 Camera Raw is exactly the same as the Lightroom develop module. You can do all basic processing of your images in Camera Raw without even going into Photoshop. Almost all changes made to Photoshop CC have been made to Camera Raw. At the top of the screen is the Toolbar. At the right of the screen are the Panels. Starting with the panels left to right:
Basic panel: This is where you can do all basic adjustments including exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, blacks, clarity, vibrance, saturation, temperature, and tint. Carl recommends that you first set the white and black points. This is done by holding down the Shift key and clicking on the each of the sliders entitled whites and blacks. Make other adjustments using the histogram as a guide to help you get the proper exposure. Clipping on either side of the histogram can be eliminated by adjusting the highlights and shadows. Clarity is good for bringing out detail.
Curves panel: Carl says this is not really needed anymore. These adjustments can be made with either the basic panel adjustments or the adjustment brush on the Tool Bar.
Details panel: This panel is for sharpening and noise reduction. The noise reduction on this panel should be done prior to any sharpening because if you sharpen first it brings out more noise. Carl says that the noise reduction here now works as well as most plug-ins. Once you have made the necessary noise adjustments the sharpening can then be done.
Under sharpening, Carl recommends that you hold down the Alt key and take the Masking slider to the right to eliminate any broad flat areas of the image where there is little contrast. An image with more detail will need less (or no) masking as opposed to something like a face where you may only want to sharpen the basic outlines like the hair, the eyes, the eyebrows, the outlines of the features. Carl says it usually works best to use a radius somewhere between 1.0 and 1.4. Sharpen as much as needed but not to the point where the image looks “crunchy”.
HSL Grayscale: This allows you to deal with individual colors. However, this changes everything in the image so if you just want to change adjust the color of a certain area you are better off using the adjustment brush on the Tool Bar. You can, however, convert the image to grayscale here just by checking the box at the top of the panel.
Lens Correction: This is used to fix any distortion that your lens may have caused. There is a lot more to this than we were able to cover today so this will be covered in future sessions.
Effects: This can be used to add grain if you want. Again there are other things that can be done here which will be covered in future sessions.
Presets: If you come up with a process that you like and would like to use repeatedly, click on the flyout menu here and save the settings.
Snapshots: For a single image you can save several versions and go back to the same photo later and see the different versions.
White Balance: White balance can be adjusted in several ways. One way is to just go to the dropdown menu at the top of the Basic Panel and try the different options there.
Another way is to use the White Balance tool located in the toolbar. But first start by holding down the Shift key and double-clicking on the white slider button. Then do the same on the black slider button. This gives you a starting point. Then, use the White Balance tool (3rd from the left on the toolbar) and click on something in the image that is18% or light gray. If the RGB numbers (at the top righthand side of the screen) are all the same, you have clicked on something that is 18% gray. Carl would argue, however, that this is a creative choice. So basically, click on different parts of the image until you find something that satisfies you!
Straighten Tool: (7th from the left on the Toolbar) can be used to straighten an image by dragging it along a straight line in the image that should be either straight across (horizontal) or straight up and down (vertical.)
Spot Removal Tool: (8th from the left on the Toolbar) can be used to remove spots or blemishes on the image. Make the circle only as big as needed to cover the spot to be removed (using the left and right brackets keys) and then click on the spot.
Batching: Another thing that can be done in Camera Raw is batch processing a group of photos. Say you have a group of photos that were all taken at the same time in the same kind of lighting and you will need the same basic adjustments to all of them. In Bridge, Ctrl-click on each image that you want to batch process to select it. Now open them in Camera Raw by either right clicking and selecting Open in Camera Raw or going up to File – Open in Camera Raw. At the top lefthand corner of the screen you can click on Select All, then click on Synchronize. A menu will appear and you can then check all of the boxes for the adjustments that you want to synchronize. Then make your adjustments. All of the selected photos will be adjusted!
Anik Sales, who handles our social media accounts, (Facebook and Instagram) urged those who would like to have their images featured on these sites to post them in Flickr. Also members who have a business that they would like to promote, please send your website link and information to Anik as well.
The January photo assignment was “The Magic of Christmas”. The winners were:
3rd place – Lisa Snider, 2nd place – Anik Sales, and 1st place – Mike Jones.
Congratulations to the winners! Your names have been added to the drawing for the end of the
year prize of a boxed version of ProShow Producer (a $250 value). The 1st Prize Winner will also be this month’s Facebook cover photo for the month.
The winner of the Pro-Show Producer for the 2016 photo assignments was Tammi Gorsak.
The February photo assignment is “Creative Composition”.
A slide show entitled “2016 Netherlands and Belgium” was presented by Melissa Chin.